Almost 1,000 years ago, in 1075, Italy wasn’t yet a united country, but rather a myriad of different states, counties and kingdoms. A long conflict broke out between the empire and the papacy. The Holy Roman Emperor, Enrico IV of Franconia, appointed the cleric Tedald as archbishop of Milan, but the Pope, Gregorio VII, considered him illegitimate and excommunicated him.

Out of spite, Enrico IV therefore had the pope deposed in Worms in 1076 and, in turn, Gregorio VII excommunicated the emperor. Many German bishops and princes took Gregorio IV’s side, thus forcing Enrico IV to ask for forgiveness. To do so, he stayed three days and three nights outside the castle of Canossa, a village in the current province of Reggio Emilia, where Gregorio was staying as a guest of the countess Matilda. It was the culmination of the struggle between popes and emperors in the Middle Ages, and this Collection traces this history.

In the end, the penitent Enrico was let in and forgiven after three days outside. Even today, in common Italian language, the expression ‘going to Canossa’ indicates requesting forgiveness and repentance. If you already knew this expression or were intrigued by this short story, cycling in the lands of Countess Matilde of Canossa is a perfect way to get to know these undervalued but splendid areas.

Between 950 and 1150, the dominion of the Canossa extended as far as the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Maremma of Lazio, but today these territories belong to the province of Reggio Emilia. They’re located between the plains and the Apennines, hilly areas that are considered ‘lands of Canossa’. The route of a Gran Fondo, called the Matildica and part of the UCI World Series (granfondomatildica.it/en/), lets you discover the lands of the duchess, from the capital of Reggio Emilia to the Bismantova stone.

This route covers 160 kilometres (99 mi) on asphalt. A road bike with gears that allow you to tackle gradients over 12% is ideal. You’ll easily find a place to stay in Castelnovo ne' Monti and throughout the Reggio Emilia Pre-Apennines. You can also camp, or even complete the loop in a single day. Getting to the starting point in Reggio Emilia is quite simple: via the Via Emilia, the station on the Milan-Bologna route, or the Autostrada del Sole.

Enjoy your adventure through the lands of Matilde di Canossa!